Friday, November 04, 2005
On this day:

Smart black slacks

If, as some commentators suggest, the new NBA dress code is intended to make the sport 'less black' by banning hip-hop attire and enforcing a 'smart casual' look, it could actually have the opposite effect. As students of Cultural Studies will remember from reading books such as Dick Hebdige's 'Subculture: The meaning of style', Angel McRobbie's 'Zoot suits and second hand dresses' and Stuart Hall's 'Resitance through rituals', throughout the post-war period youth subcultures have taken great pleasure in turning society's stylistic norms on its head. Think of the Teddy Boys in 1950s England, with their mockery of the fashions of the Edwardian dandy. Or the Mexicans and their Zoot Suits in 1940s America. Or the Mods and Casuals, with their smarter-than-thou approach to clothing, dressing like everyone else only more so.
A similar look could arise in the US, with ghetto kids sporting chinos and Aquascutum blazers in a similar perversion of white, middle class dress codes as that employed by working class and unemployed UK kids (Chavs if you will) when they adopted 'golf club' brands such as Pringle and Burberry as marques of distinction.

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